03 July 2025
Episode 81: Simon Jacob shares the Carignan grape's remarkable story of transformation from bulk wine scapegoat to artisanal darling
The Kosher Terroir
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The grape that once dominated French vineyards has risen from obscurity to become one of the most exciting varietals in the kosher wine industry. Carignan's story is one of remarkable transformation - from bulk wine scapegoat to artisanal darling.
Born in northeastern Spain so long ago that it gave its name to a town rather than the other way around, Carignan traveled through the Mediterranean Basin, adapting to new terroirs and playing a crucial role in viticultural history. By the mid-20th century, it had become France's most widely planted grape, only to fall victim to its own success. Over-cropped and mismanaged, it gained an undeserved reputation for harsh, tannic wines lacking distinction.
For Israeli agriculture, Carignan proved invaluable during the First Aliyah of the 1880s. Baron Edmund de Rothschild imported French cuttings to help establish Jewish farming communities, with Carignan's resilience perfectly suited to Mediterranean conditions. For decades, it formed the backbone of Israeli wine, particularly for sacramental purposes, before being overshadowed by international varieties in the quest for prestige.
Today, visionary winemakers have rediscovered the true potential of this ancient varietal. Through careful farming of old bush vines, limited yields, and thoughtful vinification, they're revealing Carignan's extraordinary range - from powerful, structured reds reminiscent of top Rhone wines to light, chillable natural expressions, elegant roses, and even rare white versions.
What makes Carignan truly special is its chameleon-like ability to express terroir. The same grape produces wildly different wines in France, Chile, California, and Israel, each reflecting their unique growing conditions with remarkable transparency. Add its natural resilience to drought, heat, and disease, and Carignan suddenly appears to be the perfect varietal for our changing climate.
Whether you're exploring bottles from Vitkin, Tepperberg, or boutique producers in the Judean Hills, Carignan offers something authentically Mediterranean yet distinctly modern. In its journey from rejection to renaissance, it tells a quintessentially Jewish story of resilience, adaptation, and rebirth - a narrative worth savoring with every sip.
For more information:
www.TheKosherTerroir.com
The grape that once dominated French vineyards has risen from obscurity to become one of the most exciting varietals in the kosher wine industry. Carignan's story is one of remarkable transformation - from bulk wine scapegoat to artisanal darling.
Born in northeastern Spain so long ago that it gave its name to a town rather than the other way around, Carignan traveled through the Mediterranean Basin, adapting to new terroirs and playing a crucial role in viticultural history. By the mid-20th century, it had become France's most widely planted grape, only to fall victim to its own success. Over-cropped and mismanaged, it gained an undeserved reputation for harsh, tannic wines lacking distinction.
For Israeli agriculture, Carignan proved invaluable during the First Aliyah of the 1880s. Baron Edmund de Rothschild imported French cuttings to help establish Jewish farming communities, with Carignan's resilience perfectly suited to Mediterranean conditions. For decades, it formed the backbone of Israeli wine, particularly for sacramental purposes, before being overshadowed by international varieties in the quest for prestige.
Today, visionary winemakers have rediscovered the true potential of this ancient varietal. Through careful farming of old bush vines, limited yields, and thoughtful vinification, they're revealing Carignan's extraordinary range - from powerful, structured reds reminiscent of top Rhone wines to light, chillable natural expressions, elegant roses, and even rare white versions.
What makes Carignan truly special is its chameleon-like ability to express terroir. The same grape produces wildly different wines in France, Chile, California, and Israel, each reflecting their unique growing conditions with remarkable transparency. Add its natural resilience to drought, heat, and disease, and Carignan suddenly appears to be the perfect varietal for our changing climate.
Whether you're exploring bottles from Vitkin, Tepperberg, or boutique producers in the Judean Hills, Carignan offers something authentically Mediterranean yet distinctly modern. In its journey from rejection to renaissance, it tells a quintessentially Jewish story of resilience, adaptation, and rebirth - a narrative worth savoring with every sip.
For more information:
www.TheKosherTerroir.com