Derek Guy and Peter Zottolo return for the third installment of their quarterly AMA series, generously sponsored by our friends at Bezel.
This time, they go deep on fabric: navy sport coats, green double-breasted suits, the five tweeds they would choose from scratch, and the right cloth for a balmacaan. They also revisit bespoke mistakes, the tailors still on their wish lists, shoes for serious walking, the difference between personal style and costume, and what actually reads from across the room.
Plus: date-night clothes without tailoring, keeping pet hair off your wardrobe, finding occasions to wear the clothes you already own, the appeal of authentic workwear, their favorite versions of menswear staples, and why the person you imagine in the mirror may not be the person everyone else sees. They close by designing the elusive middle-ground jacket—dressier than a chore coat, easier than a sport coat, and made for the romantic life of a writer.
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Fabric Recommendations
Navy Sport Coat
Derek’s Picks:
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Holland & Sherry Mesh & Hopsack Blazers
Huddersfield or Smiths Mock Leno
Harrison Spring Ram stitched hopsack
Holland & Sherry cashmere doeskin
Hainsworth doeskin
Fox serge
Peter’s Picks:
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Hopsack or similar Spring Ram 16oz for fall/winter or Finmeresco 12oz for summer, I have experience with Moorhouse and while it’s much softer it’s too prone to fraying
Green double-breasted suit in the South
Derek’s Picks:
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Harrisons Spring Ram
Huddersfield Fine Worsted Super Gaberdine
Peter’s Picks:
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Spring Ram 12oz if you can stand it, or Isca 8oz if you can’t. Bear in mind that Isca is 55/45 linen/wool so it won’t be as crisp as Spring Ram. If you want a stiffer suit try Cape Kid 60/40 wool-mohair
Five Tweeds
Derek’s Picks
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Brown Molloy & Sons Donegal (or Holland & Sherry for something softer)
Gray glen check Fox tweed
Something brown from W. Bill like a basic glen check or gun club
Lovat Kirkton 523
Lovat Kirkton 502
Peter’s Picks:
For sportcoats, I prefer softer tweeds (Shetland, lambswool, even hairy faux tweeds such as Moonbeam or Sherry Tweed) as opposed to stiff & scratchy (Harris, gamekeeper, Hartwist, Thornproof).
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Porter & Harding Glenroyal True POW
Brown, Dark Brown, Green & Tan Dogtooth
Brown with green & red check
W Bill Grey shetland herringbone
Holland & Sherry Sherry Tweed either Brown w/hazelnut/blue check or Brown w/chestnut/blue mock glen check
Balmacaan to wear with jeans
Derek’s Picks:
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W. Bill Classic Coatings
Marling & Evans undyed wool (or this check)
VBC Hope and Archive Overcoat
Holland & Sherry overcoat
Lovat Ettrick (as seen at Paul Stuart Japan)
Harrisons cashmere overcoating
Peter’s Picks
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W.Bill Classic Coatings or Irish Donegal
Lint Brushes
Article at Put This On
Best Of
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M43 is vintage
Chore coat was Jack/Knife (RIP) – hand-hammered rivets and leather backs, single stitching everywhere, perfect fit, until you grow out of it
OCBD is Kamakura – replication of old BB and good fabrics
Chino - I only have one pair from Buck Mason, the paperback
Jeans are either Strike Gold 5103 slub jean ( crazy fades) or Buck Mason Full Saddle
Tees are Buck Mason Field Spec
Chambray shirt is Brycelands USN Perfect chambray shirt
Western shirt is Stevenson Overall Co Cody
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