English· 07:06:25· 24 chapters
Every age witnesses the birth of some great soul. Sometimes events bring these people to the attention of the world. More often than not, they alter the lives around them, then pass on quietly. Such a soul belonged to the author of this cherished book. There was nothing in Louisa Jebb's comfortable Victorian youth to indicate she would one day take to the saddle and pen one of the most eloquent equestrian travel books ever written. Yet in the early years of the 20th century, Jebb set out with a female companion to cross the Turkish Empire on horseback. To say they were unprepared to become Long Riders would be an understatement. Neither of them could speak the local language. Furthermore, both wore cumbersome full-length skirts and rode side-saddles. They were, in a word, enthusiastic amateurs who believed courage and common sense would see them through. Remarkably, it did. Having hired a picturesque guide and reliable horses, they set out to explore the secret corners of the Sultan's empire. What they discovered were guarded harems and regal Pashas, fabled rivers and a desert world of intense beauty. If Jebb rode into Turkey expecting to find adventure, she found it. Yet she discovered something else - nomadic freedom. It is her personal observations about this subject that set "By Desert Ways to Baghdad and Damascus" apart from other equestrian travel books. "In the untravelled parts of the East you reign supreme, there is no need to go about securely chained to a gold watch. Ignore Time, and he is your servant," she observed wisely. Sadly, revolution and death soon swept across this fabled land, wiping away the kingdom of the Turkish Caliphs and laying the foundations for the grief which enshrouds this unhappy part of the world today. Upon her return to "civilization" the author lamented about what she had found, then lost. "Last night we were dirty, isolated and free, tonight we are clean, sociable and trammelled. Last night the setting sun's final message was burnt into us. Tonight the sunset passed unheeded as we sit imprisoned and oppressed by the confining walls of Damascus Palace Hotel. We are no longer princesses whose hands are kissed. We are now judged by the cost of our raiment." Few books contain as many great abiding truths as this one does. - Summary by Goodreads
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Chapters
- Chapter 1
Prologue
10:25 - Chapter 2
Disentanglement
12:52 - Chapter 3
Brigandage
14:55 - Chapter 4
Social Intercourse
10:00 - Chapter 5
The Dawn of the Baghdad Railway
38:53 - Chapter 6
In the Taurus
28:37 - Chapter 7
Royal Progress
23:52 - Chapter 8
Harran: A Digression into the Land of Abraham
19:31 - Chapter 9
That Unblessed Land, Mesopotamia
24:59 - Chapter 10
Afloat
09:43 - Chapter 11
Held Up
25:37 - Chapter 12
A Reception and a Dance
11:34 - Chapter 13
An Encounter with an Englishman
12:49 - Chapter 14
The Creed of the Koran
14:37 - Chapter 15
The Evil One
15:33 - Chapter 16
Arab Hospitality
14:15 - Chapter 17
A Storm and a Lull
15:05 - Chapter 18
An Encounter with Fanatics
10:54 - Chapter 19
The End of the Raft
09:11 - Chapter 20
Babylon
19:04 - Chapter 21
The Sound of the Desert
19:07 - Chapter 22
Palmyra
11:04 - Chapter 23
An Armenian and a Turk
35:51 - Chapter 24
Retrospective
17:57